I built a 2012 PC that lasted until July/2015, when there was a power shortage at my place, and my Asus X79 Deluxe had some burnt components and died. I then proceeded to buy a DX79SR, (a local tech store installed it) but when I turn it on, it shows the '00' code at the MB and the screen goes dark (does not show any 0_ in the screen, as it did in some similar cases I found here at the community). I don't hear any beeps, and even if I try to turn it on without graphic card, or without any RAM, it does not beep and it keeps showing the same 00. Tried to change RAM sticks, checked also for the basic troubleshooting process. I'm wondering if anyone has seen anything like it? Could be a hardware MB failure? Could the CPU had been damaged on the power shortage, back in July? (I've heard this is extremely rare, and also that this MB has been having some compatibility issues, so I'm ruling it out for now) .I have read a similar case, and this MB wasn't compatible with Radeon cards, in general. So I bought the EVGA GeForce Nvidia G210 card. No luck, same error code, nothing changed.
I reseted the battery with the jumper position change, and then also with the removal of the battery. I'm not used on snooping around too much on these components and I would be very happy to get some clues on what else I should try. I can't find a store nearby that has a LGA2011 MB or CPU, to test either of them.
Is there anything I can do BIOS related to try and solve this? I know very little about that or hardware in general, insights would be highly appreciated
Here's the config:
i7-3930K 3.20GHz 12MB LGA2011
Intel DX79SR LGA 2011
Corsair Cooler Hydro Series H100 CWCH100
HD Western Digital SATA 2 1TB 64MB Caviar Green
SSD Crucial 128 GB SATA 6Gb/s
RAM Corsair Vengeance Blue 4 GB DDR3 SDRAM (4x=16GB)
VGA Sapphire Radeon HD 7750 OC 1024MB (1GB) DDR5 PCI-Express 11202-05-20G (Also trying with the brand new EVGA GeForce Nvidia G210)
UPS nobreak APC BR1500G Back-UPS Pro 1500VA
XFX 650W XTR Series Full Modular PSU 80 Plus Gold P1-650B-BEFX (brand new, I also have the original PSU for this rig, a functioning Seasonic 750W Gold)
The computer has been dead for about 4 months, and I'm trying hard to find clues on this problem for the last weeks.
Thanks a lot for any help
When the SIO initializes the POST Code display, it defaults to value 00. If the system never proceeds to the point where the BIOS begins delivering POST Code updates to Port 80, this 00 will continue to sit there.
In the cases where I saw this issue with the SI, TO and SR boards, changing the PSU did the trick. I suggest two things:
- Try the second PSU if you haven't already - and a third if you can borrow one.
- Go back to a bare-bones testing configuration. That is, motherboard out of chassis, sitting on grounded/isolated surface (hint: sit the board on the sheet of semi-rigid foam that came in the board's box), with only CPU, CPU cooler, a single DIMM and the graphics card installed. Connect keyboard via board's back panel (i.e. don't use front panel USB connectors). Connect PSU (also out of chassis) to board and graphics card (but nothing else!). Carefully use a small screwdriver to short together pins 6 & 8 of front panel header to power on/off the system.
Like the N.Scott.Pearson said, you need to built the system with minimum of components. Then, you should try different PSUs until reach successful POST. Then, in BIOS Setup enable intuitive-named option 'Flash Update Sleep Delay' (Intel dude called it so - stop your herbalism!). After that try with PSU you have at start of thread.
Hello there, I've been out of town. Thanks guys for the feedback.
I just tried doing what N. Scott told me to. None of the PSUs are working, so I jumped to step 2.
As you said, I've connected only the CPU, CPU Cooler, a single DIMM, graphics card. Everything out of the chassis. I also connected the PSU to the board (my graphics card doesn't have a power connector).
How do I short the pins (I've already located them on the front panel) with the screwdriver? I assume all cables should be off? I knew the paperclip test to check the PSU, but there I put the paperclip and then turn everything on. Now I can't figure a way to touch the screwdriver to the pins without killing myself. WIthout eletricity it would never work I guess, and I must have my hand on the screwdriver to short the pins. Now I just thought, I'm only gonna kill myself if I touch the metal part of the screwdriver? as long as I hold it from the top everything's fine?
Ok, I just did it and I get a red light blinking quickly, according to the manual that light means 'CPU Hot'. I don't hear the cooler fans turning on as well. Before, on the case, it worked well so maybe I screwed something up. I guess now I should make the cooler work so that CPU Hot light doesn't blink anymore?
Yeah I connected both, CPU and CPU Cooler. Same result as before, 00 Code, blank screen. I tried both PSUs, one of them is brand new, I bought it after my computer wouldn't turn up anymore, so I never used it.
I hear kind of a water-like sound coming from the CPU/CPU Cooler/heatsink. Is it because I have a liquid cooler? Or could be something wrong? I can't find a store around here that has a LGA 2011 MB to test my CPU (3930k). Any clues?
Connecting the CPU Cooler's fan to the motherboard is not an absolutely necessary step at this point, but is certainly recommended if you have a liquid cooling unit. The CPU Hot LED can also be turned on in the event of certain other errors as well, so it isn't an indicator at this time of the CPU not running because of heat (it would take a significant amount of time with power on for this to occur even if no cooling unit was attached). If you have liquid cooling attached, yes you should hear liquid moving. As for the PSU, a multimeter test tells you very little; there are many different voltages supplied, at many different wattages and they all have to be within expected tolerances. As an example of what could be wrong (but implying absolutely nothing about whether it is applicable in this case), remember that the instantaneous power draw that occurs when you power on the system is far higher than the continuous draw needed later on. It is possible that the PSU cannot provide the instantaneous power necessary.
Let me repeat: For your testing, you want motherboard sitting on anti-static surface (the sheet of semi-rigid foam that came in the board's box is a good choice). CPU should be installed, CPU Cooler should be installed and its lead(s) connected to appropriate fan header(s) on the motherboard. PSU should be connected to motherboard using both the 8-pin and 24-pin connectors. If your PSU has only a 4-pin connector and you are attempting to use an adapter to connect it to all 8 pins of the 8-pin connector, forget it, it isn't going to work with this processor; replace this PSU. You should have the GFX card installed in the 16x PCIe connector and the necessary 6-pin power cable(s) from the PSU plugged into it. You should also have your keyboard and monitor plugged in. Nothing else - and especially not anything that goes to the chassis (i.e. no front panel switch/LED cable, no front panel USB cables, no internal audio cable, no 1394 cable, no hard drive (or CD, DVD or BD) cables, etc. and etc.).
I think you figured it out but I will say so anyway: by shorting, I mean having the screwdriver simultaneously touch pins 6 & 8 of the board's front panel header - while touching nothing else.
Now, a little more about PSUs. When selecting a PSU, especially one for a high-end system, total wattage isn't everything. I have seen 800W PSUs - which you would think would be total overkill - that cannot work with some boards. You (also) need to look at the individual supplies out of the PSU to ensure that they (minimally) provide the necessary wattage levels (especially the 12V supply provided via the (8-pin) Extended ATX connector for the CPU) and that they can support the instantaneous power-on requirements of both the board and CPU. Remember too the secondary 12V supply that is needed for most GFX cards.
It seems your motherboard stopped working. Contact our customer support team, they will explain you the replacement process.
http://www.intel.com/p/en_US/support/contactsupport Contact Support
Hello again Scott, thanks for the answer,
After dozens of calls, I finally found a store that has a X79 motherboard, as well as a LGA 2011 3rd generation CPU, tomorrow I'll go there so they can test both my CPU and MB. I don't know if they'll have an alternative PSU, but in case both my components are fine, I'll be looking to RMA my recent PSU.
As far as the breadboarding test, I think I did it correctly yesterday, I hope the picture shows it. I didn't need any adapters, the PSU connectors did the job well. my GFX card doesn't demand a power connector to the PSU.
I tested the machine with both PSUs, same result, nothing happened, I kept getting the 00 code and no progress (actually you can see the 00 in the pic). Oh, and I used a swim noodle as the surface, hope it does the anti-static job - I didn't find the sheet you were mentioning. I was able to short the pins with the screwdriver as well. About the ATX connector (and also connectors as well), I tested the ones that came with my old Seasonic PSU, as well as the new ones that came with the XTR.
Mike C, possibly I'll try to RMA the MB after tomorrow's tests, let's see. I'll write here 1st thing after the results.