Everything is plugged in and everything was working this morning for Windows 10 - I was using it for a few days. I noticed that I had to press the power button twice to start it off, though. This is a minor annoyance, so I tried to set the BIOS to allow it to not hang at startup with the Intel logo sitting there, doing nothing. So I turned off Legacy Boot and USB Boot options in the VisualBIOS. Well, unfortunately, after I tried to boot again, no video at all was displayed, and multiple CMOS and jumper-connector resets have done me no good. Did I fry the board, or is it just Intel boards that experience these problems? I notice a lot of other forum posts online with similar questions, but they are not resolved. Help?
Power off. Move the yellow BIOS Configuration jumper from pins 1-2 to pins 2-3. Power on. It should go into BIOS Setup automatically. Use F9 to reset the configuration to defaults then use F10 to save the configuration and exit BIOS Setup. When screen blanks, power off. Put jumper back to pins 1-2. Power on. Use F2 to enter BIOS Setup. Make what changes you need to be able to boot and use F10 to save the configuration and exit BIOS Setup again.
If you want to speed boot and you are booting from SATA HDD without intervention, best you can do is to just enable Fast Boot. This will mean that, if you need to subsequently go into BIOS Setup, you have to do the jumper thing again, but that's probably ok. I wouldn't disable Legacy Boot; you might need that (if you upgraded from Windows 7 to Windows 10, you definitely do already).
Hope this helps,
I tried that and all I heard was "tick tick tick tick tick tick tick tick tick" - and still no video output on screen, so I wouldn't be able to perform the F9 trick you are recommending...
No, parameters are completely ignored when you boot in Manufacturing Mode (which is what the 2-3 position is for). Are you sure that the jumper was properly on the 2-3 position? It should have worked.
Where was the ticking coming from? This isn't normal for any state.
This is highly unlikely, but it happened to me once, so let's check it out. When you remove the jumper, is the metal portion of the jumper (which shorts the two pins to each other) coming off with it? Or is it only the plastic portion that is coming off? If you are sure that the metal portion is coming off and moving with the jumper, let's try going back onto pins 2-3 and see if the same thing happens again.
If the same thing happens again, we need to get more drastic. Here are my suggestions...
First, do a CMOS reset. With system disconnected from A/C (i.e. unplugged from wall), remove the CR2032 battery (it's round, approximately the size of an American nickel) from the socket on the board. After waiting approximately 15 minutes, put the battery back into the socket and power back on.
Second, install (or reinstall) the latest BIOS using the Recovery Method. The process is documented here: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/boards-and-kits/000005630.html?wapkw=bios+recovery Intel Desktop Boards Recovery BIOS Update Instructions. My additions to this process include:
When the process is complete and you have powered off, instead of restoring the jumper to pins 1-2, restore it to pins 2-3. Power on and you should get into BIOS Setup and can then reset the configuration.
If you get no display during the recovery process, wait 15 minutes before powering off (just in case it is working but without display). Now we get really drastic; it's time to remove your graphics card and switch to on-chip graphics. Connect your monitor using a video connector on the back panel of the board. Go through all of the above steps with it in this configuration.
Hope this helps; in your response, please document thoroughly what you see (and don't see)...
Thank you very much to N.Scott.Pearson for the comments posted previously.
Another option we can try is to do a BIOS recovery, by doing that at least we should be able to get access to the BIOS, and also the BIOS settings will be reset to defaults.
To do that, please get a USB flash drive that is totally empty, formatted in FAT32 and from a different PC, please download the following file and save the file on it, the file is the first option on the left:
Once you do that, while the PC in question is off, connect the USB flash drive to it and remove the jumper completely from the board and then turn the PC on, at this point you should be able to get a message showing that the BIOS recovery is in progress or it will ask you if you want to do that.
Any questions, please let me know.
Erm can you post screenshots of what the process is suppose to look like? bevause I'm still not getting any video display (probably because I disabled USB booting and Legacy Booting in the preferences of my BIOS tweaks). So I think it won't boot the USB until my OS boots, which isn't booting up or at least I can't see it doing so.
Someone suggested I get a PS2 keyboard because that isn't affected by the USB boot process I mentioned - I don't have one on hand. I'll probably get one soon enough, but for the time being, these resets not working lead me to think I've bricked my board. it still beeps when I turn it off using the power button, fans run, USB power runs. Is it fried? Is it defective? What if my CMOS battery is needing replacement (I got this bored used, but it worked fine for Windows until those BIOS tweaks I mentioned).
Hi Alberto - I think I'll be able to get access to a PS2 keyboard. What I need to ask of you though is how to set the load defaults option on this board. Will it be F9 (because I am assuming I still will not have video out)? And then once I hit that, will I need to press Y for yes? Or enter to save and exit?
Yes, if you can get the PS2 keyboard then once you get in the BIOS to restore to defaults just press F9 and then press F10 to save the changes and exit.
If you need to replace the CMOS battery you can always do that on any store that those type of products available because the CMOS batter is not available as a spare part for us to send you one.
At this point it is very hard to make sure if it is fried or defective, but after trying all those troubleshoot steps if the problem remains then that might be the case and a replacement will be needed.
If by any chance you do get display, during the BIOS recovery you should be able to see some messages as shown on the picture below:
If you need to replace the CMOS battery you can always do that on any store that those type of products available because the CMOS batter is not available as a spare part for us to send you one, but the problem does not seemed to be related to the battery, however to do a clear CMOS you can always take out the battery from the board very carefully because it is very delicate, for about 15 minutes and then put it back in again and test the PC:
NOTE: These links are being offered for your convenience and should not be viewed as an endorsement by Intel of the content, products, or services offered there.
Any questions, please let me know.
If you are blind, this is the sequence you need:
As I said, no USB device data can be exchanged after the BIOS tweak. Using PS2 keyboard didn't help either, even with Pearson's instructions. A user's BIOS tweak pretty much killed this board. That's so unfortunate because other boards out there exist with the ability to reset your BIOS by pressing a button on the board. All because it was freezing at startup on the Intel logo.
Hhmmm... My conclusion from this is that something else has gone wrong on this board. Using the onboard graphics solution is going to work regardless of the settings of any BIOS parameters.
Have you owned this board for less than three years? If so, you can get a warranty replacement for it. If this is the case, contact Intel Customer Support to set up the RMA. Here is information regarding how to contact them:
http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/contact-support.html# @11 Intel Customer Support Contact Information for US and Canada
http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/contact-support/emea-contact.html Intel Customer Support Contact Information for Europe, Middle East and Africa
http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/contact-support/apac-contact.html Intel Customer Support Contact Information for Asia-Pacific
http://www.intel.la/content/www/xl/es/support/contact-support/lar-contact.html Intel Customer Support Contact Information for Latin America
Hope this helps,
Thank you very much to N.Scott.Pearson for the comments posted on this thread.
Based on the fact that you tried all the troubleshoot steps that we recommend, the next thing to do as it was mentioned above is to replace the board.
Since the board has 3 years of warranty, in this case you can always look for the proof of purchase and if it shows you purchased the motherboard less than 3 years ago, then you can always use any of the link provided on the last post to get in contact directly with Intel to replace it.
Any questions, please let me know.
Indeed. I am getting a replacement from the company I ordered it from. Hopefully everything sails smoothly from there. The boot up problem probably won't be solved, though - where I'd have to power on the system twice to get Windows to boot? Yeah, that. I think that's a board problem, not the PSU or software or anything like that, unless I can somehow get BIOS to recognize the Windows SSD everytime it boots up and not hang. Any suggestions?