What can cause a ridiculously slow boot? Something like 4-5 minutes.
I have the DZ87KLT-75K motherboard with core i7 CPU which is set up as a dual boot Win7 WIN10 system. One SSD for Win7 OS and one SSD for Win10 OS and two WD HDs for a RAID 1 mirror. When I first built this system it was booting up in under a minute. It’s now taking 4-5 minutes at least when it’s not hanging. I’ve had it in the shop three times for this issue. The first time, they told me I had a faulty SSD for my WIN10 installation and I bought a new SSD. It didn’t correct the problem. The second time I brought it in they told me it was a “Windows update problem”, but that was bs because the problem persists. I brought it in a third time, under warranty, only to discover that my RAID card had been stolen or they forgot to replace it. So this place must be incompetent.
I have a dual boot system because when I migrated to WIN10 I hated it. That’s when I also found out I couldn’t buy a new mb which supported WIN7 so I reinstalled WIN7 on the DZ87KLT-75K.
Could my dual boot be causing the problem? Could it be the CPU? What else can I look at? The memory was checked and seems okay, the power supply is new. The drives are virtually brand new except for the one holding WIN7.
I have four of these boards, and never experienced a problem with them. Also, I never dual boot.
I would remove EVERYTHING except ONE boot drive, including the dvd, printers, scanners, etc if you have them.
Try booting with the one driver, mouse, and keyboard. Report back.
I have noticed that this board, in particular, boots very slowly if external USB Hub(s) are present.
In order to diagnose slow boot issues, you may want to play with the Fast Boot parameters. These parameters allow you to disable certain kinds of initialization activities during BIOS POST. By enabling them one at a time, you can ascertain what category of hardware is causing the slowdown. Remember that, if you are using a USB-based keyboard and mouse, you will not be able to stop the boot process and enter BIOS Setup while you have USB initialization disabled. Your best bet is to have a PS/2 keyboard plugged in. If you do not have one, you can regain control by moving the BIOS Configuration jumper from the 1-2 position to the 2-3 position and then power on.
Hope this helps,
I recently replaced a faulty USB expansion card with a new one, a 4 port USB 3.0 Adaptec, where each USB port has a separate controller. This is an internal PCIe card and it was fairly expensive as these things go, so I hope it’s not the problem.
will definitely pass your other suggestions forward as my computer is still in the shop. I have wanted to move it elsewhere, but that’s not so easy under the present “shelter in place” situation. I’m hoping I don’t have the same tech that worked in it before.
To Al Hill, Glad to hear you’ve had no trouble with this board! Good suggestion to simplify. I have passed on your good advice to the tech who is working on my computer to alternatively remove one boot drive to see if the boot situation is improved. It’s in the shop so they are using their keyboard and mouse, but I am sure the minimum is attached.
Why do you say you never dual boot? I ran a successful tri boot system for many years, I think it was Win2000 and WINXP and MS-DOS, but for the life of me I can’t remember why I felt the need to do that. Somewhere along the line, maybe for WIN7, I was told it wasn’t a good idea, but my current dual boot system was installed by a local Microsoft Store, so I assumed it wouldn’t be a problem.
"Why do you say you never dual boot?"
Because there is no need to dual boot these days. I run other operating systems as a virtual machine on W10 Pro Hyper-V.
Regarding my comments about removing everything you do not need, that goes for any add-on cards, like your usb controller, a modem card, everything!
When you boot your minimal machine, and the boot performance is good, then add your removed items back, one at a time, and test the boot. Keep doing this until you find the offending item. Yes, it takes time, but that is what troubleshooting is all about.
Wow, I wish I had known about Hyper-V when I purchased Windows 10. I have Windows 10 Home. Wouldn’t you know it, this is the very first time I have ever purchased a “home” version of Windows. I’ve had the Pro versions of Windows NT, Windows 2000, Windows XP, Windows 7, and now I thought I’d save a little money and buy Windows 10 Home.
But this knowledge gives me a way to retain Windows 7 even if I wind up buying a new mother board some day. THANK YOU!!
I guess I should ask how smooth is the transition between a virtual OS and Windows 10 and is speed compromised on the virtual machine?
And I do get it and will strip my machine down to the minimum and proceed one step at a time until I find the culprit.
I like the VMs with Hyper-V. They are not without issue, but they work well.
Stripping down your machine and re-adding components one-by-one may not solve the problem, but it does eliminate a lot of possibilities.
An update from the computer service department is worrisome. They tell me the BIOS freezes up when they try to work on it. Which can mean a motherboard problem. Can’t a new version of the BIOS be installed? That said my machine still boots, though slowly. They have plans to test my CPU in a different computer, also the memory. And they will strip down and boot from just one OS at a time on a minimal system.
Meanwhile, I have a couple of new options to consider:
- Buy a new motherboard and CPU and upgrade to Win10 Pro and run Win7 on a virtual basis.
- Buy a used version of this Intel mb and continue either with just Win7 or as dual boot.
if I decide to buy a new mb, which is probably my best option, what mb do you all recommend for reliability. I’m not a gamer.
Well, I rather doubt that a BIOS upgrade will accomplish anything. I would think that the BIOS you have is fairly close to the latest and the last few only delivered security and microcode fixes. It feels like you are seeing a failure in the chipset or memory bus components. It could possibly be failing RAM (this can happen over time as noise builds in the components); you could try running with different DIMMs and see if this makes a difference. I cannot disagree with their plan for testing this, but add the RAM test as well.
Couldn’t the BIOS have become corrupted? I suspect an idiot was working on my computer because the 1st time it came out of the shop the dual boot capability had been lost. I can put what I know about the BIOS and setting up a dual boot in a thimble, but I can’t help suspecting the tech working on my computer found the Intel BIOS unfamiliar and then tinkered with it and messed it up. Can’t it be reloaded just like a piece of software?
Otherwise, it may simply be symptomatic of something else, as you suggested.
Yes, the bios could be corrupted.
I have attached the latest bios in zip format
Use Scott's recovery procedure here:
That is very nice of you, thanks a lot! Nice set of directions to install the BIOS, too. I will forward this to the tech to digest with his morning coffee. I just hope he can understand it and will follow the instructions exactly.
Just wondering.....I seem to remember being told that to reinstall Microsoft Windows the mother boards must be the same and that the BIOS version also has to be the same. Is that so?
The Windows license information is stored in the BIOS on this board and should be retrieved when reinstalling Windows 10. The version of the BIOS that is installed does not matter.
Just an update. This afternoon, I was called to say my computer was ready.. Was told the boot was now under a minute for both Win7 and Win10 but that (oddly) Win7 booted more than several seconds faster than Win10. That’s okay with me, just a little surprising. They discovered that the ASUS audio card was bad. When they attempted to add a driver, or do anything else, they got the blue screen. My only other card, a 4 port USB card, passed testing. They did this testing on another working computer. Well, that was interesting because I’ve had nothing but trouble with that sound card; I’ll refrain from disgorging the annoying details. All the drives passed various tests on a stripped down computer as suggested here. No other reason was produced for the lengthy boots and hangs I was experiencing, except the faulty sound card.. They were unable to update the BIOS, saying the instructions for jumpers didn’t match the jumpers on my board. That may be so, but honestly I don’t trust the answer because I’ve had sooo many contradicting stories of what they’ve done. One person will say a drive is bad, the next will say they didn’t mean that. Every day has been a different story, and a different tech. They concede that their staff is not good at documenting what they’ve done. I’ll say!! I do concede that the times are troubled, they they are under strain and short of staff, but I suspect the confusion I experienced represents a Routine lack of supervising guidelines, not a novel lack. Believe it or not, I wasn’t charged anything as my job was considered “under warranty”.
So I brought it home, hooked everything up, and my monitor says it is getting no signal and goes into standby mode! Which is one of the reasons I brought it into the shop in the first place. It’s a brand new LG monitor. Now what..... <sigh>
You cannot take the board to that shop any more. The bios jumper has been the same on intel boards for a decade or more.
Audio card? Who will ever know?
I hate to bail out on this, but I have no idea of what has really been done. You can do the bios recovery with Scotts, instructions. You can check the bios settings for video.
Pity - it is a very nice board that may have suffered damage at the hands of the service idiots.
You are too right, I am NOT planning to return to that shop.
I do want to say thanks to both of you for being super supportive to me through this ordeal. There SHOULD be a happy ending celebration at this point considering how much effort was put in. Unfortunately, there must be a bad genie inside of my particular build, as there is no reasonable explanation for this last problem with the monitor. Believe it or not, this reluctant LG monitor which I bought only last October was a replacement for a View Sonic less than one year old that failed for the same reason, it wouldn’t display an image on boot. At this point I feel reasonably sure there is nothing wrong with the LG monitor or with the View Sonic still sitting in my garage. It does seem time to “abandon ship” and move on to a new motherboard. I really don’t want to do that, but I don’t know what else to do.