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12546 Discussions

Splash/Bios screen disappears in seconds, no video output



I was working normally on my NUC in Windows 10 with 2 monitors when suddenly the video output stopped.
No blue screen or error just loss of signal. The power was still on I think.
When I tried to reboot I got fan noise but no blue light and blank monitors - no NUC splash screen.

I took it apart and sprayed air into the fan and circuit board power switch.
I tried combinations of 1 of the 2 RAM modules in either slot too without much differentiation. 

It is now back to how it was originally and normally. Now I do get a blue light and fan noise.
I get nothing on the display port output.
On HDMI output I do get sometimes get the NUC splash screen (and if I press F2 the bios setup) for a second or two. Immediately though it disappears to black and no signal.
Getting this though is temperamental. Sometimes it powers up and the fan is low or is high but no video at all. Sometimes its fan noise but no blue light.

Any ideas of what I should do?

Attached is my info text from last April.


It's worth mentioning that for a while, every few months I have had another issue. The computer will get glitchy and ultimately blue screen and/or at boot say there's no system disk.
I have to take it apart and press down to re-engage the SATA and power cables properly. I presume these coming loose is due to the NUC being mounted on the back of my monitor. 

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6 Replies
Super User Retired Employee

Needing to reengage the SATA connectors is usually necessary as a result of having just opened the case, which means that it likely hasn't anything to do with it - but, it gives me an idea: You (a) had to disconnect power in order to open the case and (b) are having a power-on issue. Hhmmm, what's common? There are two possibilities, (1) failing power supply and (2) failing voltage generation circuitry. We cannot do much if the issue is the latter, so let's look at the former: Do you have an alternate power supply you can try?



Thanks for replying.

I don't have another NUC power supply no. 

The SATA connection issue would occur randomly with the case shut. Opening the case was required to fix it. The current problem did not manifest the same way. I just mentioned it as background.

The current issue could be power related. I'd guess something about a change in power demand or capacitors since it works to a point and is temperamental.

Any more ideas please?

Super User

Try a different/better HDMI cable.


Doc (not an Intel employee or contractor)
[Maybe Windows 12 will be better]


I was already using a different HDMI cable to the one when it first died. But I tried switching it back.

From a cold boot it first displayed

The following are warings that were detected during this boot.
These can be viewed in setup onf the Event Log Page.
WARNING : Processor Thermal Trip
Press the Enter key to continue

After Pressing enter and during a few more attempts to boot it either

  • got to the Windows login screen then died
  • loaded BIOS and allowed me to tab around until trying to move Page 2 when it died.
  • attempted disk repairs
  • reached the blue Start Up Repair screen but was unable to make repairs
  • gave no output. I had to press the power button to restart

Sometimes during boot the blue LED would flash other times it'd be steady. I tried pushing in the SATA connections again. 


Super User Retired Employee

When you say 'died', what do you mean? Rebooted? Powered off? Hung? What?

Speculating, you have a NUC that is approaching 8 years old. I have not seen a NUC this old that didn't have overheating issues of one sort or another. Remember that overheating results in the processor being throttled - which can appear to be a hang - and can even culminate in the processor reaching the THERMTRIP temperature and abruptly powering off the system. If this is the issue - and it is starting to sound like it is - then there are remedial steps that you can perform:

  1. Remove the board completely from the chassis. Be very careful doing so or damage could occur; there are reports of people yanking off components because they catch on the chassis. You want to remove the two screws holding the board down and very carefully lift the board up along its front edge (I use a small flat/slot screwdriver to carefully separate the board components away from the chassis wall. Note: there are all sorts of videos on YouTube that show you the process for doing this removal; try to find one that is specific to your model.
  2. Remediation 1: Use a can of compressed air to clean the surfaces of the board. This include aiming it directly into the blower (its not a fan) and removing as much of the buildup within the blower as possible. Without returning the board to the chassis, you can reconnect power supply, keyboard/mouse and monitor (note: don't worry about reconnecting the SATA power/data cables for this level of testing) and then power on to test whether this made any improvement.
  3. Remediation 2: Remove the blower. Carefully unplug its tiny cable and then remove the (in most cases 3) screws holding it down. You will often find a tangle of hair/dust/dirt that is blocking the air coming out of the blower from travelling into the tunnel, over the heatsink surface and out of the chassis. You can directly apply compressed air to remove all of this buildup, including direct cleaning of anything within the blower casing. You can then restore the blower and, as done in Remediation 1, test if this appears to alleviate the problem.
  4. Remediation 3: This is the tough one and you have to be very careful. Use the various videos posted on YouTube to help you perform this remediation. You want to remove the heatsink and replace the Thermal Interface Material (TIM, slang: heatsink paste) that goes between the heatsink and processor surfaces. The heatsink removal needs to be done very carefully as there is also a piece of thermal foam that supports heat transfer from secondary component(s) that don't stand as high as the processor. If you damage this foam in any way, you will need to replace it as well (and I am unsure of the thickness needed). Again, rely on the YouTube videos for the process of applying new TIM. I use Arctic Silver 5 myself (because I have it), but there are all sorts of good TIMs you could use (see Tom's Hardware article Best Thermal Paste for CPUs 2022: 90 Pastes Tested and Ranked for a list).

That's an introduction. All I can say is, if you choose to attempt these remediations, BE CAREFUL! As they say, 'slow and steady wins the race'.



Thanks very much. Following those guides I've done pretty much all of that except the Remediation 3 bit.

Running the cleaned motherboard outside the box has not been successful. Blue LED but no video output. I also notice that there's no power to a keyboard or mouse plugged into any of the USB ports.

Feels like I need to buy a new model.
Any suggestions of what do to with the 16GB 2133MHz DDR4 SODIMM inside? Reuse/sell?