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lol that was a mitake on my side, i got the B760 as well
anyway, your hands may be warmer than the radiator, as are mine (the camera can't be in focus on two different objects - it's a cheap thermal camera, therefore the temperature reading is slightly off, but it still shows the difference)
if you guessed that the radiators are behind my hand, you guessed right, the CPU had some 150W of usage at the time i took the picture, room temp @ 21*C, so the radiators would not feel warm....but stone cold neither.
the ppl who post their benchmarks, sometimes use those fancy below-zero cooling stuff, not sure how it's called but it indeed can even freeze on one side making it a hazard for the PC. So that is how they overclock it to 500W power.....pointless.
Now, at least my Gigabyte B760 Gaming X does not support overclocking , i assume so does yours, therefore some settings in BIOS will not exist or you won't be able to change them.
And, just to make it clear, overclocking from 5GHz to 5,4GHz gives you a gain of 8% while the power usage will be much higher, maybe as much as 60% more - in other words, overclocking is useless
However, i need to ask, how sure are you that you put the CPU water block on the CPU and that it actually is kinda parallel to it, like i mean if it is not crooked and the surface of the die is parallel to the surface of the cooling part of the water block?
....and there are those videos about 12 and 13generation CPU series, where they proved the die to not be flat....
you can watch this video on YT https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYU1OskbY-Q
and the interesting part starts at 9:30
they compare the stock CPU holder-thingy to some custom made frames - which apparently does not deform CPU or makes it more flat....well, they explain in the video.
They also got similar temperatures even with very expensive setup.
But if you want to test it yourself...and compare to what conditions i have with same motherboard? idk what exact motherboard you have, but same CPU and about as much cooling power (i have two radiators, but the fans spin always at teh lowest rpm so that the PC is silent, so your setup may have similar cooling power)
So, here is what i did, i changed the power limit to various values.
At 200W it only hits thermal throttling, when i run some tests (on the left in the XTU window you can see "Stress tests" if i run the memory test for like one hour, the thermal throttling will occur once a while, bcoz teh CPU will use 200W all the time, and on no power limit it will hit the thermal throttling continously)
here an example, limit at 200W no thermal throttling but continuos power limit throttling:
maybe i should change colours lol bcoz red is for temperature and orange for thermal throttling....looks very similar
...and without power limit, at the beginning it hit almost 270W since i let it sit in idle for few minutes and everything was cold...
you can see as the CPU got warmer on average and kept close to 100*C, the power was automatically decreased with time, started at almost 270W and then dropped to some 230W average.....not cold enough for the CPU to use full power all the time.
and when i stop the test, the temperature spikes down right away, if that does not happen on your side, and temperature seems to decrease slower, then i would say that you have a problem:
In other words, that is how i concluded that despite good cooling power, the cooling power does not reach the CPU bcoz of teh water block or bcoz of the tiny CPU die.....could be both.
I wish someone would post all that and i wouldn't have to test it myself, but no one did, they just said the CPU will hit 100*C very often.
Summary, if your setup behaves similar to mine, then the CPU and water block are stuck together quite well.
Of course, at 230W my double radiators do contribute to slightly better cooling....so you may end up with a slightly lower power if you run the test longer OR if your room temperature is way higher than 21*C.
Hope that helps you answer all your questions.
...Transilvania? , i always was a huge fan of stories about Vampires, but never had the time to actually go to Transilvania , and that region is also known for good hiking trails....one day i will be hiking somewhere in your region
If your setup does not allow CPU to hit 100*C even at 220W, then it is cooling it better than mine
And just now i took a look at the B760 and B790 specs, mine is by the way DD4, since i had 16gigs of DDR4 RAM....anyway, the difference is as you said the ability to overclock, and by far the 790 can do it and it was made for it.
It has double power supply for the CPU, and they claim it has "6layer 2x copper" whatever that means, i guess it's fine if its multiple layers of copper, maybe the PCB on there is not hitting 90*C as is does on the B760.
And so, the below B760 has just 8+1+1 phases VRM , this tells you how it switches the power, obviously the CPU needs a constant power supply, and the more phases the more stable it should be.
The board has only one M2 SSD heatsink "thermal guard"
now teh B790 says right away that it can take 70Amps, ....@5V that would make it to 350Watts....interesting, i saw boards , but really expensive that said they could take 90Amps , with 80Amps is the starting current and almost good enough for welding with a 1.5~2mm wire
Yea, then there is that massive heatsink for M2 SSDs and one small just like on the B760, plus like i mentioned, double power supply/connector for the CPU.
I would be not surprised, if this board can take 500W easily without going off with some smoke.
More copper = thicker tracks on the PCB and the power delivered to the CPU is more stable as well as the board takes no damage. I guess that is why it is more expensive.
As far i recall, Intel gives a warranty up to 3years on some CPUs, and some only 1year.
You need to check if your warranty did indeed expire.
...potato for a heatsink hahaha, that is a good one.
Now, assuming CPU is not broken in any way, i would still check the thermal paste, maybe buy a fresh one, i use Noctua NTH2, Arctic MX4 gives less good results, but still more than 250W on the CPU.
Knowing that water cooling may bring also unwanted drawbacks, such as junk in the liquid, it is possible, that the jet plate of teh water block, is full of such junk and no liquid gets through.
There seem to be no video on disasembling the unit, so you would be on your own.
if there is some junk, you would have to flush it the loop with destilled water few times, let it run, flush again....., and also do not add any fancy ani-corrosion additives, bcoz those have a not so long lifespan and will degrade resulting in more junk in the loop....swapping the destilled water once few month would be best solution....and would cost some time.
If you decide to open the loop to seeif the liquid is contaminated, and if it is, then you can use a tooth brush and literally toothpase to clean the jet plate.
Yours will not look like this, but will be similar, and if its also made of copper, it will have corrosion, just like this one in the middle of it where the ater had most pressure:
Well, that is just an idea.
Also, spreading the thermal paste gave me much worse results than just putting an X pattern on the CPU and smack the water block on it.
Normal temperature for CPU i7-13700k:
- Idle: 30°C - 50°C (86°F - 122°F)
- Load: 60°C - 85°C (140°F - 185°F)
- Heavy load: Up to 100°C (185°F) (May affect CPU life)
In addition, you can also learn more about what CPU temperature is normal here https://haivi.tech/nhiet-do-cpu-bao-nhieu-la-binh-thuong
@HaiViIT wrote:Normal temperature for CPU i7-13700k:
- Idle: 30°C - 50°C (86°F - 122°F)
- Load: 60°C - 85°C (140°F - 185°F)
- Heavy load: Up to 100°C (185°F) (May affect CPU life)
In addition, you can also learn more about what CPU temperature is normal here https://haivi.tech/nhiet-do-cpu-bao-nhieu-la-binh-thuong
Your argument is invalid.....we are here with water cooling, NOT passive air cooling.
Here the water pump is OFF, no water circulating at all and me replying to you, while browsing chrome and firefox, and checking my emails, the graph shown here shows in total around 10minutes, of which about 6 minutes with water pump OFF:
i get 50° after several minutes without even a water pump while browsing internet. 50°C idle is not normal.
if you feel fancy, you can setup the 'Power saver' profile in the power options of windows, just like i did, only important is that the 'maximum state' is less than 100%, that will result in CPU not clocking higher than 2,5GHz and a max TDP of some 50 Watts.
XTU is not limit the power here, windows OS is:
